The 42 vapor gives some toe curl and is just tight enough to not have dead space, but can be left on for a few pitches roped climbing at a time in gym. I have a broader shaped toe box, 2nd toe is close to the same length as my big toe. 42 in the orange vapors and 40.5 in the TC pros. I've found that I need to size down much more for sportivas than scarpas. I think Scarpa would be more suited for the symmetrical foot shape with a longer 2nd toe. It feels unnatural compared to Sportiva for me. The only thing I cant get over, and why I sold my Scarpas, is the power/edging spot seems more in between the big/2nd toe in a dead space area. If you want them to grip like stealth, get them resoled in vibram xs grip2 instead of the xs edgeĬomparing size 40 in Sportiva to Vapor V 40.5-old orange ones, Instinct VS 41, Boostic 40.5). I also have a wide foot and they definitely have a wide toebox. maybe its because you sized up, but the boostics are stiffer and edge better than the vapor v's in the same size for me. Haven't tried the new ones yet and don't know what changes they've made. *my experience is with the old orange model. Slab? Every shoe hurts on slab so far as I can tell. 5 euro size up which are comfy and good where you don't need to edge hard.
I don't like the fit of the magos as much but in the forefoot where it counts they fit well and those things are stiff. These things edge pretty well, but for super edging power I have a pair of Magos in the same size. I really like these shoes, I consider my foot on the wide side, and somewhat asymmetrical. I think it's like a 3.2mm vs the 4mm I get the resole with. For years I thought vibram XS whatever was just fine but having worked a few projects with two pairs of vapors, one with vibrate and the other with stealth, I was surprised at how much better I felt on crap feet with the stealth. One thing I've noticed is the rubber that comes on them is not as good as Stealth. These are my go to shoes these days and I cycle through a few pairs. Wider than sportiva for sure, except for the solution.
They fit me much better than either the Anasazi velcro or the Katana velcro. Also they were uncomfortable climbing vertical or slab since weighting the toes crushed them together too much.Ĭaughtinside wrote:Yeah, I would also call the Vapor V a medium to wide toe box. I think Scarpa would be more suited for the symmetrical foot shape with a longer 2nd toe.īasically what all this meant for my climbing, these Scarpa shoes were killer for overhung/roof climbing (best heel and snug technical fit) but felt sort of untrustworthy/sketch feeling on more vertical climbs were weighting the foot and heavy edging was involved. I handled the new version of these in REI and they felt really good and much improved. They are a good shoes and I think they are like a Muira VS with a better heel and more balanced and integrated construction between upper and sole.
I know two climbing friends who wear the Solutions for aggressive climbing and Vapor V's for everything else. I actually sold Katana laces for being a little too narrow, cramped, and stiff in the toe box in my normal Sportiva size so I can see how they compare more similarly.
This is comparing size 40 in Sportiva to Vapor V 40.5-old orange ones, Instinct VS 41, Boostic 40.5). I like how low volume Scarpas are but I do find them uncomfortably narrow in the toe box compared to Sportiva shoes (Solution, Miura VS for example).
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